Monday, March 30, 2009












The birth of a baby is a really big deal around here. The official naming of a baby is also highly celebrated, and it’s a big community event. If any of you visit me, I hope we can go to one. ;-)

In Mandinka, the baby-naming ceremony is called a “kunliyo” (head-shaving). The whole community attends, including extended family from other villages. Kunliyos can be all day events, people get all dressed up and gather at the house of the family who had a child. There is lots of food, people sit around and chat forever (this part gets boring when I run out of vocab). The traditional story-tellers and musicians, called “griots” circle through the crowd during this time. Griots sing songs praising the greatness of your family, then you have to give them money. In my opinion, this is a pain, I felt targeted for being the only toubab. Really, you sing me a song that I did not ask for, then I have to give you money? Then later, the Imam and village elders gather, everyone prays, then the Imam shaves the baby’s head and announces the name. Then more food and tea-drinking. Sometimes, if the family is well-off, they will rent a DJ and there will be dancing long into the evening.

I have included some pictures from a kunliyo from one of my host mother’s family. The pictures include the huge amount of food that has to be prepared, everyone’s pretty clothes, plus this big suitcase of gifts for the mother. Speaking of pretty clothes, the mother will often change clothes many many times throughout the day. I went to a Kunliyo up-country where the mother put on a new, beautiful outfit every hour or two, resulting in at least 5 changes. The big suitcase of gifts was something I’d never seen at any other ceremony. Apparently, it either happens at the marriage or at the birth of the first child. It was kind of ridiculous, the females of the husband’s extended family all came in singing and presenting this suitcase, then the griots announced it’s contents, piece by piece, over a megaphone. it went like this

One compete outfit.
One complete outfit!!!
Two complete outfits.
Two complete outfits!!

Five complete outfits.
Five complete outfits!!

Three sets matching bra and underwear.
Three sets matching bra and underwear!!

12 bars soap.
12 bars soap!!!

Three pairs matching shoes and purse.
Three pairs matching shoes and purse!!

It was ridiculous, this itemizing of swag. But apparently if it doesn’t happen at the wedding or at the birth of the first child, then the wife refuses to go live with her husband. Anyway. After seeing that no one can convince me that there isn’t money in this country. Its here. Priorities are just whack.

And in other news, I’m told that if the baby-of-honor pees on you at the kunliyo, its good luck. So at least I’ve got that going for me. ;-)

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