City Folks

Hey, know what I noticed? City people are jerks. Seriously. Mostly men, from my experience, maybe kids too. But I definitely had to get out of the Kombo area to understand.

Lately, I’ve been put off a little bit by people. For example, we were taught when we got here to begin social interactions with the Arabic “Salaamalekum” (“Peace be with You”), then proceed with other greetings, and that’s definitely how Gambians do it. But lately, I’ve had more than a few people challenge me on it. Like, I’ll get into a taxi, and I’ll greet the driver and other passengers with “Salaamalekum”, and sometimes someone will ask “Are you Muslim?” or “Do you pray?” (which I’ve noticed means the same thing to them). And when I reply no, they proceed to tell me that wishing someone peace in this way is for Muslims only. Really guys? I’m in your country for two years, trying to help with development, and you can’t wish me peace? Of all the things that don’t cost you anything, peace would just be a nice thing to wish someone. It wouldn’t hurt my feelings so much if my Gambian, Muslim language teachers hadn’t encouraged us to use this greeting. I’m not trying to upset someone’s religion. Sometimes I try to argue, saying that everyone likes peace, so I’m going to wish it. This infidel is wishing you all peace, whether you want it or not.
I’ve also had a couple of people challenging me on language while in town. Like, if I start speaking in Mandinka, some guy just turned to me to say “You’re trying to speak Mandinka, but you cannot.” By that point, I hadn’t even messed up yet. He then proceeded to tell me in Mandinka that I can’t hear Mandinka clearly, because I’m just a toubab. Thanks dude. I understood what you just said. I replied accordingly. I came to your country, and thought it might be nice to try to learn the language. I bet it didn’t take you only six months to learn English. It just sounds to me like my friends up-country don’t have this problem.
Also, there is just more bumster-type men hanging around in the city. I’m always the boss lady, first lady, nice lady, with the nice name, and its impossible to live your life without being hit up by a man. My least favorite is a group of twenty-somethings, all leaning against a wall, drinking attaya, and they catcall with a very demanding, “girl, come here!” (that’s the translation, but for some reason it sounds more rude when its “naa bang!”) Guys, I know that wall won’t hold itself up without you, and while you’re performing that public service you might as well drink some tea, but jeez, I’ve got stuff to do.

But in the surrounding villages? People are so much nicer! I rode my bike up to a little village north of where I am. On the way I got lost, and asked a man for directions. He rode with me almost all the way (along a tiny dirt path over hills and through people’s back yards), then pointed me down the last part of my ride. Then, not only did he not say “toubab, give me your bike” he prayed out loud asking Allah to give me peace on the road. (to which I replied by tapping my forehead and saying “Ameen!”) Thanks, dude, I hope so too! And same to you! And when I got to the village I was going to, there was no toubabing from the kids! No bumster-like behavior!
I’m glad for many reasons that I live in an urban area, fresh fruit and vegetables, internet, reliable phone service, always lots of things going on. But when I get out and away from all that crap, I think I could sort of dig the small-town life.